Technical Mountain Rescue on Hard Ice for Glacier Guides

Technical Mountain Rescue on Hard Ice for Glacier Guides

The course covers the concepts and techniques to enable a small team to undertake technical rope rescue. The course aims to further develop the candidate's previous rope and technical skill towards simple and effective solutions for technical rescue, such as incident management, risk assessment,  rigging, and operating stretchers and team organization.


Course topics include: 

  • Personal and team equipment
  • On sight risk assessment and pre-planning
  • Equipment strengths, loads and forces
  • Team management and effective communication
  • Knots and anchor systems
  • Pulley systems and T method
  • Knot passing on lower and raise
  • Pickoff, team-based
  • Two rope system / Mirrored system
  • Stretcher rigging and operating on variable angles
  • Patient packaging

Personal and team gear list:

  • Standard glacier guiding equipment for each candidate
  • Normally includes 2x ice screws, 120cm sling, locking, and non-locking carabiners, 6-7mm prussic cords, etc
  • 2x Static ropes 40-50m - 9mm minimum
  • 2x Asseccory cord 10m – 8mm
  • 8x Pulleys (ideally larger with bearing)
  • Personal adjustable lanyard (Purcell prussic)
  • Stretcher 



The following bullet points are the must know prerequisites of this course. Applicant should have:

  • Basic general mountaineering skills
  • Confidence in basic crampon movement techniques on hard ice terrain
  • Basic rope management skills
  • Knowledge in various mountaineering knots



Participants are evaluated throughout the course according to the course curriculum. Constructive and realistic feedback will be given by the instructor during each day to both group and individuals.


Trip Details
Pickup Time: 

Meet on locatin only


2 Days

All Year
Guest to Guide Ratio: 

Minimum 1:4, Maximum 1:8

260.000 ISK per course
Not Included